E30 dssr installation process
In the shifter area its a great opportunity to replace several items, its a perfect example of while your in there.
- DSSR (found here)
- Shift knuckle bushing
- shift knuckle(centered knuckle to be compatible with the dssr)
- New shift lever (Z3 1.9 model, great feel for a budget price.)
- new shift lever bushing.( only if you are using a factory bushing.
- new Garagistic front shift carrier bushing (can be bought here)
- new Garagistic rear shift carrier bushing (can be bought here)
We recommend always using a little blue Loctite make sure nothing on your e30 gets loose! This is the version we recommend: https://amzn.to/3MWIUlO
- 15mm 6 point deep socket 3/8 drive
- 3/8 drive to 3/8 drive swivel
- 1 foot extension 3/8 drive
- 3/8 breaker bar with a cheater bar
- 13mm socket
- 3/8 drive standard ratchet
- 6 inch extension 3/8 drive
- 13mm box wrench, (preferably a ratcheting box wrench)
- 17mm 6 point 1/2 drive socket
- 1/2 drive 6 inch extension
- 1/2 drive ratchet
- 17mm open end wrench
- propane torch
- pry bar
- big fucking hammer
- harbor freight pick tool for the bitch clip.
- Part number 926572 from Harbor Freight
- (part number 41589)
- 2.5mm Allen wrench
- 4 jack stands
- torque wrench
Remove the exhaust,
We have the race skids cross brace and it interfered with the removal of the exhaust.
- there are 6 15mm bolts on the exhaust manifold
- 4 13mm bolts on the rear muffler
- 1 rubber figure 8 hanger.
- remove 4 13mm nuts holding the trans mounts off
- remove the 2 13mm nuts holding the trans brace off and support the trans with a jack.
- use a 1/2 drive ratchet
- 6pt 1/2 drive 17mm socket
- 1/2 drive 6 inch extension
- 17mm open end wrench
- use these tools to remove the bolts on the guibo
- mark the location of the bolts on the center support bearing(csb)
- the bolt hole is in an oval.
- remove these 13mm bolts and this allows the driveshaft to kink/bend in the middle.
- this is required to remove the driveshaft.
mark the orientation on your guibo before you remove it.
- put the e-brake on
- use a pry bar and put it inside the harmonic balancer to help keep it from spinning.
- Use a 1/2 drive 17mm short socket
- 1/2 drive torque wrench with the dial cranked really high.
- the bolts where really hard to remove.
- You can step on the drive shaft with your right foot and use your left foot pressed up against the socket to help keep it from sliding off.
Now heat up the studs and hit them with a Big fucking hammer (BFH)
Once the studs come off and fly across the room, rotate the harmonic balancer and slide it forward.
- The trans should be supported by the jack,
- Lower the jack down until the jack pad is no longer touching the trans then go up slightly to hold it a small amount. you need to do this to allow the bitch clip to rotate back once its un-clipped.
- With the hook pointed towards the driver side reach above next to the shift carrier and un-clip it.
here is a link just for the bitch clip
next is the removal of 1 13mm nut at the rear of the shift carrier.
- Now you will have the shift carrier out of the car.
- You need to remove the front carrier bushing.
- Its a rubber bushing with a metal sleeve.
use a exacto knife or a razor blade to cut the end of.
once you cut the sleeve off you can push the rubber to the other side to remove it.
now your shift carrier should be like this.
Next step is to sand down the edge on the back.
You can see the metal file we used in this picture and the Garagistic rear delrin bushing (can be bought here).
Garagistic front carrier bushing
Next step is to burn out the old bushing on the rear carrier bracket.
hammer in the new Delrin bushing with the chamfered end in first.
should look like this when its done.
A bag of screws came in with my order for the uuc products, new screws for my evo 3 shift lever.
next step requires blue loctite
install the uuc erk fitting into the shift carrier
place loctite in the screw holes.
screw them in.
your shift stage prepped and ready to go back on the car.
but the rear of your trans might look like this.
the selector rod seal is clearly leaking.
here is the tool I used to remove the seal.
craftsman flat head part number 41589
the new selector shaft seal fits great on a 15mm socket
next is the yellow pillow
followed by the shift knuckle
push the shift knuckle in and slide pin through the hole.
All clean now.
I installed the front shift carrier with the Garagistic Delrin bushing, I added 2 yellow shifter bushings total.
Maybe in the future a revision can be made to the bushing and make it a little wider.
rear busing installed
New Garagistic DSSR to replace the linkage
Since I removed the harmonic balancer I don’t have to run the bent selector rod, I can use the Garagistic dual shear selector rod.
I was just barely able to squeeze 4 yellow shims on the shift knuckle side of the linkage and 3 shims on the shift lever side of the linkage.
- now pull the rubber boot up and feed your reverse wiring in.
- putting in the reverse wiring is kind of tricky.
- I ended up cutting the wires feeding them through
- and then re-soldering the wires, the connector is too fat to feed through such a small hole.
- in the picture you can see the nylon piece, use this to pull the rubber seal up over the body.
- the UUC EVO 3 has a tamper proof screw on the lever, the head of this screw should face forward towards the dash.
now reinstall the driveshaft, exhaust, X brace and go for a test drive.
here is a quick video of going through the gears after the install.