Here’s a potential problem regarding compatibility with power steering. Many cars have suspension stabilization. This meant that the steering pump actually controlled the suspension ride height and what not. It was not compatible with hooking up 2 simple lines to it as you’d expect. There was actually a third hole, which provides hydraulic pressure to the self-leveling suspension system for various 5 and 7 series E34 and E32 models.
126.96.36.199 TOOLS REQUIRED
|13mm Socket||13mm Wrench||Flat Head Screwdriver|
188.8.131.52 TIME & MONEY
- 2.5 hours & $50
Ensure that the donor car does not have suspension stabilization. This requires the steering pump to control the suspension ride height and what not. It was not compatible with hooking up 2 simple lines to it. There was actually a third hole, which controls the suspension. If this is the case, you must purchase an M60 steering pump with bracketry that matches the left picture in Figure 56. It’s also possible to find one at a junkyard and take out the bolts (The high and low pressure lines are 19 and 22mm respectively)
The M60 uses a serpentine belt for all accessories except the air conditioning.
The Stock E30 steering rack will fit perfectly for this. You might want to think about upgrading to an e36 rack, but there is some fabrication involved there. Neither steering racks hit the bottom of the oil pan, so this is not a concern. It will be close, however. It is not extensive and information can be provided on r3vlimited.com. Just search.
You can heat/bend the lines, but you risk in damaging the rubber hose. I decided to spot mig weld the lines after cutting them, then bridge those spots with new welds. I welded slowly as to not overheat the metal and melt the rubber hose sections.
Here is the method for which I determined the best fit for the Steering Lines.
1. Which parts do I need?
a. Stock E30 low pressure line to Pump – Need M60 Low Pressure Line for M18 Banjo.
i. Cut the steel piping for both the E30 Low Pressure Hose and the M60 Low Pressure Hose (M18 Banjo). Cut to the appropriate length.
ii. De-burr the cut sections.
iii. Install the steering reservoir in its stock location. Be sure to relocate as necessary as per Figure 58. Let the hose hang down.
iv. Install the M60 Low Pressure banjo to the power steering pump.
v. Hook the two up together and mark it with a permanent marker.
vi. Remove all parts and weld at your convenience.
vii. Make sure that you welded correctly or you will have leaks.
b. Stock E30 low pressure line to Rack
i. Should be a stock fitment as neither location has changed.
c. Stock E30 high pressure line
i. Cut the steel piping for only 1 sides of E30 High Pressure lines.
1. Cut the banjo that would otherwise install into the M60 power steering pump.
ii. De-burr the cut section.
iii. Install both ends of the banjos in their appropriate location.
iv. Hook the two up together and mark it with a permanent marker.
v. Remove all parts and weld at your convenience.
vi. Make sure that you welded correctly or you will have leaks.
2. Installation & Measurement
a. After final weld is complete. You can run a pressure test to ensure that you have no leaks.
b. Install as stock.
If you decide to use the Garagistic Headers, you have the added convenience of keeping your stock E30 steering column.
The steering shaft was made from 2 splines from an E34, cut to size and welded to each other. This is the cheapest option, but you can also go with other aftermarket solutions as well. I also used 2 E34 U Joints. You cannot find these u-joints from an E30. See Figure 61, Figure 62, and the final product of welding 2 E34 steering columns together, Figure 64.
I ended up creating a steering shaft made from 2 E34 Steering columns welded together as in Figure 64. Note that as previously shown, my steering shaft does NOT have a rubber bushing. In many applications, a rubber bushing isn’t necessary. Unfortunately, due to the clearances of the driver side exhaust headers, it is almost impossible to incorporate a bushing in the steering column.
The dimension of 4 3/8” was measured. Please note that you will likely need to take this to have a machine shop weld this together. This is mainly due to the fact that they will have the specialty equipment necessary to align the 2 halves and weld them together so that they are perfectly aligned. Any misalignment during weld will have a deleterious effect on the performance during steering. You may even experience a level of binding.
Going the extra mile!
184.108.40.206 TOOLS REQUIRED
- N/A – Research Forums. There are dedicated writ-ups on the Internet.
220.127.116.11 TIME & MONEY
- Approximately 6Hrs & $250 including hardware
Here is a high level representation of the E36/Z3 Steering Rack into the E30. There are 3 major components to take note of when swapping the steering Racks. It is highly recommended to do this while there is no engine in the engine bay for ease of installation.
1. The 2 mounting points to the subframe need spacers. These spacers must be installed on the top the steering rack, in between the tabs on the E30 subframe. These are approximately ½” to 5/8” thick.
2. The Input of the E36/Z3 steering rack is offset and in a different direction than the E30 Rack. Therefore the Shaft must be shortened by approximately ¾” to account for this difference. Either Spacers on the shaft or an entirely custom shaft must be used. 3. Lastly, the inlets/outlets on the E36/Z3 rack are different; Therefore a different high-pressure line must be used. It must also be modified to fit in-between the rack and the pump. See Figure 65.
These 3 major differences are no deterrent for completing this swap. The E36 swap comes in 3.5 Turns Lock-to-Lock and the ’95 M3 has a shorter 3.0 Turns. The Z3 has 2.7 Turns, so all of these options add a much sportier feel to the E30.
You also have the option of deleting the E30 Power Steering altogether. While you must maintain the Pump for the purposes of the belt, you can remove the other apparatus associated with the power steering system including the lines, and reservoir. This is possible by the power steering delete from Garagistic as shown in Figure 66.
As you can see in Figure 66, there is a pass-through that allows any remaining fluid or residual pressure to flow. All you must do is use your existing 19mm & 22mm wrenches to tighten down your existing banjo bolts.