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Attention 190E fans! We are now offering a solid 6 puck clutch capable of taking the repetitive abuse of track days. Coming with a 2K+ psi pressure plate and a 6 puck solid disk. A simple organic disk? Not exactly... this clutch has a higher burst torque rating, and metal backing to help with heat control. These are very capable of being used for endurance racing with 8hr+ sessions.
Road racing clutch and drag racing clutch kits are not the same. There is no need for metallic style disks. Dont Forget the lightweight flywheel for the ultimate 190E combo!
Must use Loctite blue on all metal to metal surfaces
Torque Spec: M102/M104
The clutch will slip for the first couple of miles (or less depending on which break in procedure you follow). The kevlar needs to bed in which typically takes 1000 standing starts from a full stop, or a series of rolling accelerations that allow the clutch to slip a small amount under controlled conditions.
You will notice that initially under hard acceleration the clutch will want to slip at higher rpms. This is normal during the break in period as the fuzzy material of the kevlar needs to wear off and coat the friction material on the flywheel.
If you are using the acceleration method of break in, it is important that you back off the throttle when you feel the clutch start to slip. The rpms at the slip point will generally need to fall 1000-1500 rpms before the clutch grabs again. Accelerate from 40-55 mph or 55-80 mph with enough throttle to load up the driveline and slip the clutch without overdoing it. It‚Äôs best to perform this break in procedure on a highway in low traffic or a long and open stretch of straight road.
DO NOT allow the clutch to slip for extended periods of time (no more than 15 seconds) as this will burn through the kevlar material and glaze the surfaces causing irreversible damage to your clutch assembly.