E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)
E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)
E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)
E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)
E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)
E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)
E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)
E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)
E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)
E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)

E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup)

K0047

Sale price $650.00 Save 0%
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Only 491 items in stock!
Will not ship until June 5, 2020

E30 BRAKE BOOSTER DELETE BRACKET (FOR WILWOOD AND TILTON PEDAL BOX)

THIS IS VERSION 2.

It's no secret. The brake booster relocation is the hardest part of the V8 into E30 swap! The factory booster is in the way. Some choose to use E32/E34 booster setup and relocate behind the headlight. This is costly, requires lots of custom work, clutters engine bay, and requires the removal or relocation of the complete abs setup including brake lines. With this boosterless brake setup bracket, swap time is shorter, and swap is cleaner. Our boosterless brake bracket allows you to use wilwood or tilton pedals/master cylinders. Everything is relocated tightly and neatly under the dash in the factory pedal area. When the conversion is done, its all hidden! Simply mount the reservoirs in your engine bay and that's the only give away. Easy way to get a wilwood pedal box for your E30.

HOW IS THE E30 BRAKE BOOSTER DELETE BRACKET MOUNTED?

Mounting (body side) consists of three of the factory holes under the dash + three holes near the firewall that need to be drilled. Bracket is completely assembled and tig welded (certified welder) on arrival. All hardware is supplied. Pedal assembly is not included. We recommend using Wilwood 340-11299 Brake and Clutch Pedal Assembly

WHAT SIZE MASTER CYLINDERS SHOULD I USE WITH MY BOOSTERLESS DELETE SETUP?

We recommend using masters with 5/8" bore front and rear for factory sized or similar brakes. These are the most compact masters and the smaller bore means that effort will be bearable (especially if you plan to run these on the street). You will also need 3 master cylinders. 2 for the brakes and 1 for the clutch. For most customers, a 5/8 bore for the brakes keeps the pedal effort to a minimum and safe. The clutch will be a 3/4 bore. The correct 5/8 master cylinders needed can be found here: Wilwood 260-10371 Short 5/8" Bore Master Cylinder Kit For the 3/4 bore (clutch) we recommend this version:3/4" BORE, WILWOOD, PART # 260-10372 IF YOU ARE USING LARGER PISTON BRAKES SUCH AS E36 COMPONENTS YOU WILL WANT TO USE LARGE 3/4" BORE MASTER CYLINDERS FOR THE BRAKES. PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU REQUIRE THIS SETUP!

We now carry Wilwood pedals and master cylinders in a package deal. Simply select the option above to "add pedals and master cylinders" and you will get everything needed to bolt the boosterless Wilwood into your E30. You will get the adjustable pedal assembly (340-11299), 2 5/8 Wilwood master cylinders, and one 3/4 master cylinders.

If you would like different bore sizes to let us know and we can change them. Otherwise, these recommended default bores will be selected. The general rule of thumb: Bigger bores: Minimal pedal travel/stiffer pedal/higher pedal effort. Smaller bores: Long pedal travel/softer pedal/less pedal effort. All grade 8 hardware included. Pedals/master cylinders/brake switch are not included and must be bought. This is for the conversion bracket and hardware only. This pedal mount does not work with airbag steering columns. To use this mount in an airbag car, a non-airbag steering column must be installed first. Uses three of the factory holes under the dash + three holes near the firewall that need to be drilled. Works on left-hand drive cars only.

Please note: We no longer include the 3 brass fittings picture as we upgraded to better fittings that are included in the plumbing kit. Instructions can be found here

E30 brake booster delete bracket instructions

e30 brake booster delete

Whats needed?

- Garagistic LLC e30 brake booster delete bracket - found here

- Wilwood 340-11299 Brake and Clutch Pedal Assembly

- Early e30 brake pedal switch

- (3) 90 degree 1/8-27 NPT male to 3/16 standard female fittings (optional)

 

You will  also need 3 master cylinders. 2 for the brakes and 1 for the clutch. For most customers a 5/8 bore for the brakes keeps the pedal effort to a minimum and safe.

The correct 5/8 master cylinders needed can be found here: Wilwood 260-10371 Short 5/8" Bore Master Cylinder Kit

For the 3/4 bore clutch we recommend this version:3/4" BORE, WILWOOD, PART # 260-10372

 

 

Note: Will not work in Airbag e30 cars. To use this in airbag car, you must switch to a steering column from a NON-ABS car.

 

Step 1: First thing we will be doing is installing your brake switch. The Garagistic LLC kit includes a bracket for your early model e30 brake switch including hardware. You must use an early e30 unit (early e30 = round, late e30 = square)!

e30 brake booster delete instructions

e30 brake booster delete instructions

Using a snap ring pliers, remove the retaining clips from the brake pedal. Push the sleeve out and remove the pedal. Be sure to note order for reinstalling later. You will then place the brake switch bracket provided from us on the pedal "ribs" below of assembly. You will be using the side closest to the brake pedal pivot.

e30 brake booster delete instructions

e30 brake booster delete instructions

e30 brake booster delete instructions

 

No need to worry if you get it wrong, you will notice that the brake switch will not reach if put on the further rib from the brake pedal pivot. Use a 13/64” drill bit to drill through the pedal assembly "ribs". Then using the hardware we provide, bolt up your brake switch bracket. (if you desire, you may bend the bracket for a better fit. Although it's not necessary). You may now reinstall brake pedal (wait to install actual brake switch til on the car, that way you may use the two factory brake switch bolts to adjust distance as needed).

Step 2: Here we take care of all of the throttle linkage issues that arise. Remove the factory e30 throttle bracket.

You will need to dremel/file off a tiny bit off the wilwood/tilton pedal assembly. This is for the throttle cable clearance.  The location you need to dermel file is: 20 mm away from the clutch pedal, 9 mm wide. (see picture).

e30 brake booster delete instructions


e30 brake booster delete instructions

Next, you will need to shorten the factory e30 throttle linkage by 35mm. To do this, find the end of the linkage were the factory cable is attached. You will cut the 35mm from the top of this bracket and re-drill the throttle cable hole. This modification is needed to clear the pedal box. You are fitting alot under the dash, so this is a small price to pay!


e30 brake booster delete instructions

e30 brake booster delete instructions

Step 3: Install all 3 master cylinders and adjust balance bar to your preferred settings. Do this before installing pedals to Garagistic LLC brake booster delete bracket.

e30 brake booster delete instructions

Step 4: There are 4 1/4" bolts (included with Garagistic booster delete bracket) that hold the pedals to the top of Garagistic LLC brake booster delete bracket. Hand tighten the uncovered two first, then the "covered" bolts (the two holes in the top are "service holes" to assist you). Leave them loose.

e30 brake booster delete instructions

e30 brake booster delete instructions

Step 5: Using the 5/16 hardware provided with the Garagistic booster delete bracket, place the 4 5/16 bolts through all 4 bottom holes. Washers and nuts are included with the kit. You may now tighten all bolts. Refer to your pedal assemblies maker on torque specs.

Note: Wilwood mentions that the pedal assembly is designed to use all four top 1/4" bolts and two or more of the 5/16 bottom bolts. However, are kit includes 4 upper bolts and 4 lower bolts. These are your brakes. Not a place to cut corners. Use all hardware we provide. Be safe.

Step 6: If you have not already done so, remove your dash. The service manual/forums have "how to's" for this process. Once you remove your dash, remove the factory pedals. This consists of three upper bolts and 4 firewall bolts. Save the factory bolts that go up top. You will need them for your new pedal assembly.

e30 brake booster delete instructions

Install the assembled pedals and Garagistic booster delete bracket using the upper 3 bolts. Hand tighten only. We will now be drilling the three holes that hold the assembly from the "back".

Step 7: While the assembly is bolted in the front. Drill the center hole through the firewall ledge for the sandwich plate. We recommend a 21/64 drill bit.  USE PROPER EYE PROTECTION!

In the engine bay, you may now set the sandwich plate in place. There is a ledge on the firewall. using the hardware (washers/bolts/nuts) we provided in our kit. Insert the bolt in the center hole you drilled. Secure it with a nut. Now, you can see where the other two holes need to be drilled. When you are done, tighten everything up.

e30 brake booster delete instructions

Step 8: You can now route the lines and reservoirs and mount them in the final area. Most put them in the engine bay, although some race cars put them in-car. Make sure you tighten all clamps!

Step 9: You must now plumb the lines to the new location under dash. This is where those (3) 90 degree 1/8-27 NPT male to 3/16 standard female optional fittings come in handy.

e30 brake booster delete